The morning brought a scenic ride along the coast to Alghero, the capital of the “Coral Riviera”. Being Saturday, the city was teaming with locals and tourists alike, milling about enjoying the beautiful Mediterranean morning. I stopped for a cappuccino, a couple of cappuccinos actually, before heading off-route, to ride out to Punto Conte. I must look like I’m German. Or perhaps it’s because of the German tags on the motorcycle, a more probable scenario. Whenever I stop, people come up and start speaking to me in German. When I respond with “English” they immediately switch to speaking Italian. Ok. It’s still not English and I’m still not understanding a word they are saying. I just smile and repeat, “English”. They continue on, happy to be chatting up a tourist. The people on Sardinia are incredibly friendly and want to engage you in a conversation no matter what language you speak.
From Punta Conte, I headed inland on my way to Porto Rotondo. Anyone who has ever taken a Beach’s Motorcycle Adventure motorcycle tour is well aware of what have been come to be known as “Rob Roads”. I’m not sure if there is a term for a roadway smaller than tertiary, but goat path comes to mind. We ride on a lot of “Rob Roads”. He seems to find great delight in sending us down them. When I first starting taking these motorcycle tours, the thought of another “Rob Road” was enough to turn my stomach and tighten my sphincter. Now, after many years of this, my reaction is “Oh, bloody heck” or “Are you fracking kidding me?!?” but I ride on anyway. It’s usually a good way to find some great views and see parts of the country usually reserved for a limited number of locals. The look on the local’s faces, as they are tending to their chores whilst we ride by is priceless. It’s always a state of bewilderment. The roar of a BMW motorcycle revving its engine is not nearly as legendary as the low rumble of a Harley Davidson, but it is still distinctive and can be heard from a distance off. The locals certainly know we are coming.
Back on larger (i.e. secondary) roads we pass through the town of Perfugas on the bank of the Altana river. Perfugas was one of the first areas to be inhabited in all of Sardinia. Remains have been found dating back to the Lower Paleolithic Age. The name of the town translates to “fugitives” or “deserters”. Clearly the founding fathers of the town were proud of their nefarious past.
The hotel tonight is on a hillside overlooking the Emerald Coast: A perfect place for taking in the view, taking a shower then going back to taking in the view.